A Riverboat Cruise Along the Majestic Mississippi Aboard the American Queen

A Riverboat Cruise Along the Majestic Mississippi Aboard the American Queen

"Time is like a river. You cannot touch the same water twice, because the flow that has passed will never pass this way again. Enjoy every moment of your life.” 
—Daily Inspirational Quotes

Cecile and I have never been to the Mississippi nor have we ever been on a river boat cruise. So, when we were invited by Nelson and Susan Bye to join them to experience the legendary thrill of a Mississippi River Cruise, we jumped at the opportunity.

After touring the World War ll museum in New Orleans, and watching a film narrated by actor Tom Hanks, and watched a chorus of students from an International school from New Jersey who were in town for the French Quarter Festival, we made our way to the American Queen on the dock of the River Walk.

As we boarded, a band was playing Dixieland Music on the upper deck including the old spiritual favorite: “When the Saints Go Marching in.” We were served appetizers and shown the way toward our room.
We were lucky to get an upgrade and were placed in room 452 at very end of the Veranda with a river view.
The Mississippi played a pivotal role in the American Civil War. In fact, the control of the river marked a major change in the battle between the Union and the Confederate army.
Steamboat traffic was in full throttle before and after the war. Mark Twain wrote prolifically about it in “Adventures of Huckleberry Finn” and “Life on the Mississippi,” where he recalled his own personal experiences along this famous waterway. The late Johnny Cash sang about the Mississippi in a song called the “Big River.”

But, it is one thing to read or listen to a tale about the Mississippi and another thing to experience its majesty.
After we toured the boat, we put on our orange life west and participated in Coast Guard mandate fire drill and then returned to our room.

The louver doors of our cabin are made of polished wood and the interior is decorated with Victorian patterns, framed photos that celebrates the steamship era.
The Lady’s parlor, and the Men’s card room, are also furnished with antiques and reproductions dating back to the Victorian period.

We ate dinner in the JM White dining room where we were served by Kirk and his assistant Keyah. I had Tuna Tartar, spit pea soup, Spinach salad, and Roasted chicken.
We drank generous portions of a California Cabernet Sauvignon and a Chardonnay. For dessert we had a delicious wild berry cobbler and cappuccino.

Following dinner we watched a magnificent sunset from the veranda and headed to the Grand Salon to be welcomed and entertained by the cruise director and the American Queen entertainment team after which we called it a night.

Partying on at the 35th Annual French Quarter Festival in New Orleans

“There’s certain thing in life that I love. One is architecture…music, culture, food, people…and New Orleans has all of that.”
—Lenny Kravitz

We met our friends and neighbors, Susan and Nelson Bye in New Orleans this weekend to enjoy the 35th Annual French Quarter Festival prior to our scheduled river boat cruise on the Mississippi River tomorrow afternoon. It was a visual, musical and gastronomical feast. Susan who was born in Ecuador, and raised in Chile to Jewish parents said she was going to take us to church. Huh? I thought. After walking around the market district we heard church bells. She bumped into a priest from another Catholic parish who told her a service was taking place at St. Patrick’s Church right up the street. Though Susan is not particularly religious, she has had a long standing love affair with church choirs. We discovered that the church was established in 1833 and was on the National Historic Register. Before we new it we were sitting in the cedar wood pews. The grand pipe organ was playing, and a choir was singing. It was beautiful, calming and majestic and brought me back to my childhood when I used to attend mass.

Next stop was Compere Lapin Caribbean Restaurant located in the Warehouse Arts District. We were scheduled to meet our niece Emily and her friend Abbey there at 11:30 AM for brunch. Emily has been attending the French Quarter Festival for three years now and recommended Compere Lapin which in French means, brother rabbit. We introduced Emily and Abby Stockwell to the Byes. The quaint eater specializes in Creole and Cajun style and was awesome. Our two hour visit passed by quickly, we walked together down the street, then before parting company hugged and said our goodbyes.

Cecile and I and the Byes walked along the waterfront. It was a windy day and the smell of marijuana was in the air. There were several bands playing in stages stretched along the waterfront. We stopped at a few to enjoy the music. The scene was vibrant, alive, colorful. Large paddle boats were ever-present on the river.
I bumped into a few interesting characters and took photos of and with them. One in particular was an African American balloon making clown named Dwayno. He was making animal shaped figures for the kids, some with their fathers who were from the East Coast. He mentioned he used to work at Seaport Village in NYC but lived in Hoboken. I got his attention and said: “I’m from Hoboken.” An instant connection was made. We talked about Frank Sinatra, Hoboken’s favorite son, etc.

We then walked to the legendary and late BB King’s Blues Club. We paid our cover charge, got the top of our hand ink stamped with BB and Nelson and I had a beer. We listened to the Joy Owens band and I finished one of the beignets we ordered to go from the one and only Cafe du Monde. On each table top, was a painted portrait like the late Muddy Waters, the “father of modern Chicago Blues (photo).

After we left BB King’s, we walked some more, perused some shops and made our way to the award winning Palace Club in the French Quarter for a 6:15 PM dinner. It was an upbeat and lively cafe housed in the historic Werlein’s Music building. We had a wonderful waitress Kathleen serve us and a young good-natured young man named Bryson brought us our cocktails. I had a Shilo, the supper clubs version of a Moscow Mule, only they use tequila instead of Vodka. The Byes and myself ordered fish and seafood and Cecile had a cauliflower tort with Brie cheese which was out of this world. For dessert, Bryson made us Bananas Foster Flambé (photo). After bidding our servers farewell, we caught a trolley and went to hear Steamboat Willie, a veteran musician perform a set with his band at Cafe Beignet, before, heading back to our hotel. We clocked over 14,000 steps and were finally ready to call it night.

A Fabulous Sunday Brunch with Family at Jack Rose Libation House Named After a Drink with a Notorious Past

A Fabulous Sunday Brunch with Family at Jack Rose Libation House Named After a Drink with a Notorious Past

It was great day to sit outdoors. It was sunny and mild. Cecile and I recently joined Kim and Al Chien and Al’s parents Dana and Jack, our daughter Michelle and Kyle and Kyle’s brother Chip in from New York. Having been away on vacation in South East Asia for over a month, we hadn’t been able to gather together in quite some time. It was a good time to check in, gather ourselves up from the ups and downs (loss* and gains) of life we all go through and just be present with and for one another other (See Memorial postscript).

Jack Rose is known for its artistic cocktail-crafting bartenders who know how to make a drink for its patrons at the bar or as a take-away to sit under one of the sun-drenched patios with the orange umbrellas, and cushioned sofas and chairs. They keep expanding the seating areas, a good sign that they are doing well. The food and drinks were terrific and the service was excellent. Though we have been here for drinks this was the first time we tried their Sunday brunch.

Jack Rose is a cocktail made of applejack, grenadine in a syrup made from pressed pomegranate seeds, and lemon or lime juice (See last photo). One theory has it that it was named after the notorious NYC gambler and underword figure, Jacob Rosenzweig (aka Baldy Jack Rose) who was alleged to have ordered a contract hit on Herman Rosenthal, the owner of several gambling dens in what resulted in the “Trial of the Century.” The drink was very popular in the 1920s and 30s and known to be the favorite drink of literary great, John Steinbeck who lived in our neighboring town, Monte Sereno from 1926-28. While there he wrote “The Grapes of Wrath” and “Mice and Men."

The location used to house La Hacienda Inn and Restaurant, a West Valley Landmark that was founded by a friend, Michael Morosin’s father who came over from Italy with little money in his pocket. We used to go there for lunch when the restaurant was operated by a Persian restauranteur and acquaintance I knew from my health and fitness club.

Some time after Michael’s father passed away he and his sisters inherited the property and sold it to real estate investors Michael Messinger and business partner Russ Stanley for $6.5 million. The Stanleys opened Jack Rose Libation House in early 2014. With the craft movement on the rise, the Jack Rose cocktail has regained its popularity that was tarnished by its past mob history association.

Postscript: The heart and candle image is in memory of Kyle's grandmother, Dolores C. Lewis who passed away recently at the age of 95, and to Kim's beloved sister Deborah (Debbie) Jeanne Shoffner who also passed away recently after a long bout with cancer at the age of 68. We attended their memorial services this past week. May they RIP.

Celebrating a Simple Passover Seder: a Festival That Even Non-Jews Have Come to Enjoy

Like every year Cecile wanted to prepare a Passover Seder. It was only going to be her, Jason and myself. Our daughter Michelle and her husband Kyle couldn’t make it this year. We discovered that our friends and neighbors, Susan and Nelson Bye were free and were more than delighted to join us. After the candle lighting blessing, and the blessing over the wine and Matzah (unleavened bread), dinner was served. Cecile prepared a wonderful meal beginning with Charoset (a dark paste of ground dates, raisins and nuts), roasted carrots and potatoes, avocado salad, cucumbers and tomatoes, vegetarian pate and “Fred Steak,” named after a man named Fred who created a special marinade for his roasts over 40 years ago. We finished off with a heavenly home-made dessert of Chocolate Souffle with fresh whipped cream. Yes, folks, it was to die for. 

Unlike other communal religious rituals, Passover’s appeal to both secular and religious Jews as well as non-Jewish guests is that it doesn’t take place in a synagogue, but rather at the dinner table. The common question asked by parents of their children during Passover is “What makes this night different from all other nights?”
The answer: Passover is an invitation for Jews to relive the liberation of their people (Ancient Hebrews) from slavery in Egypt and believe the story should be passed on from generation to generation. But in modern times the response you might get is that it is a Jewish festival that non-Jews love to attend. It has become chic to invite a non-Jew to a Jewish seder. Even the White House held a Passover seder during Obama’s presidency beginning in 2008 (See Reuters Photo).

Actually there is some precedent for this. Hillel the elder, a famous Jewish religious leader of his time and one of the most important figures in Jewish history could not recall a particular practice relating to Passover the way it has come to be known. It is said that he resolved the matter my saying, “Go out and see what people are doing.” After embracing this challenge, he concluded: “Come to my house, and you’ll see how we do it–with an array of participants. Jews, non-Jews, all are welcome here!

It would be totally understandable if Jews kept their tradition totally to themselves since non-Jews don’t share their lineage. In other words we are not a member of the tribe. Yet, non-Jews of all stripes or colors and sexual orientations that have experienced being oppressed and persecuted can relate to the Passover story. Martin Luther King Jr. alluded to the Exodus story in a speech he gave the day before he was killed. “I’ve been to the mountaintop…I looked over. And I’ve seen the Promised Land. I may not get there with you. But I want you to know tonight, that we, as a people, will get to the Promised Land.” King shared the same vision of Moses, the Jewish prophet at the center of the Passover story, who led the Israelites through the desert but wasn’t able to take that final stretch into the Land of Israel or the Promised Land.

Since Cecile and I met 46 years ago, I have become a fan of this holiday that lasts for 7 days and 8 nights. Of course, as Jews assimilate into mainstream society it’s become common for interfaith couples like Cecile and I and Nelson and Susan to share the traditions of our childhoods. 

Happy Passover, to our family and Jewish friends.

Sources cited:  
Lauren Davidson, The Jewish Holiday of Gentiles, The Atlantic April 14, 2014
Rabbi Peter Schweitzer, Moment Magazine, Saturday, March 31, 2018

Celebrating TIna the Birthday Girl whose Friends Call her the "Bearer of Gifts"

“A grateful and generous heart is like a magnet. When you take the time to acknowledge the abundance in your life and share the wealth, you attract even more blessings and reasons to feel grateful…”
—Cheryl Richardson

No one embodies this aspiration more than our friends Tina and Wayne Levenfeld. The former owners of the Toll house hotel in Los Gatos are on the short list of two of the most generous people we know. 

Tina threw a birthday dinner party for herself at Flights (formerly Hults), a tapas style restaurant in the quaint village of Los Gatos (The Cats).
Old school etiquette experts like Miss Manners would say throwing your own birthday celebration is pretentious since the traditional expectation is when you are invited to a birthday party you're expected to buy a gift. Friends of Tina and Wayne would say, “WRONG!”
Tina is known in her circle of friends to be kind, loving, inclusive and generous to a fault. Not only did she and her loving and devoted husband Wayne host the dinner but none of Tina’s sisterhood friends left her party without a personalized gift. Yes, you heard that right. She was the “bearer of gifts” at her own birthday party. How sweet is that? At a certain point during the festivities Tina took the time to address the group, thanking us for coming, telling us how much her family and friends mean to her. She is fond of reminding people,“Your presence is my gift.” Need I say more?

The venue was charming. Flights had a bit of a stylish nightclub feel and the drinks and food kept coming. Just when you thought it was done, there was more food to indulge the most heartiest of appetites. Restauranteur and former hockey player for the San Jose Sharks, Alex Hult and his wife Sarah, Miss Nevada (2011) conceived the idea for their trendy eatery while on vacation in Hawaii in search of the perfect flight of cocktails…Flights is built on the premise of serving comfort food and great cocktails to its customers at a reasonable price and in a casual atmosphere. Everything is served with a trio of different flavors whether it is food, wine, beer, cocktails and desserts like the three Angus beef sliders, three different types of Mac & Cheese, fried calamari, three types of meatballs, and delectable Vanilla Creme Anglais, Chocolate and strawberry Beignets that melt in your mouth. The friendly servers are called “flight attendants,” and it looks like Alex and Sarahs concept restaurant is ready for take off as new locations are on the drawing board.

Happy Birthday Tina and thanks for a wonderful evening! We love you and Wayne!

Celebrating our 41st Wedding Anniversary with the Hurleys at Aldo's Ristorante

"Being deeply loved by someone gives you strength, while loving someone deeply gives you courage."—Lao Tzu

This is dedicated to the one I love—My best Friend Cecile whom I have lived with for 46 years.
Aldo's, was the perfect venue to enjoy a special evening with our dear longtime friends, Judith and Michael Hurley. The food was extraordinarily good as always. Marco and his assistant waiter seen here provided great service and good cheer.

Reflecting back, It’s so amazing when someone comes into your life and you find yourself afraid to commit. But suddenly, you realize the person in front of you is all you ever needed. When we first met, Cecile, I felt like everything in my life was propelling me towards you: my choices, my fears, my heart aches, my indecisions and my regrets. 
When we began to connect on the heart level I realized my past grievances with myself seemed worth it. Because, had I done anything different our paths may have never crossed. Love isn’t always perfect. Though we certainly had our many, many peak moments, it wasn't always a fairytale. Love is overcoming obstacles, facing challenges, accepting our differences fighting to be together, holding on and never letting go. It is a short word, easy to spell, difficult to define and impossible to live without. Love is work but most of all it's realizing that every second, every minute every hour and every year was worth it. And, with two great kids (Jason and Michelle who have gone on to become self fulfilled adults, who can ask for anything more. Happy Anniversary sweetheart!

Sip, Sip Hooray: Free Wine & Beer and Delicious $3.00 Tacos To Go at Bay Club Courtside

“It’s all about good, old-fashioned hospitality, and a good atmosphere.”—Kevin Burns

After an early evening yoga class at Bay Club Courtside recently I spotted a sign in the lobby outside the trendy indoor gourmet eatery called Cafe Vida that read: “Sip, Sip Hooray.” There was wine and beer being poured. I asked Christina, a young enthusiastic staff member with the dark pony tail doing the pouring, if it was complimentary? She promply answered yes! Of course, in the back of my New Jersey mind I’m thinking what’s the catch? Was it sponsored by a Wine and Beer Club or something? I discovered that the special treat for members was going on every evening for a month and due to its popularity rumor has it that it may be extended after that to a couple of days a week until the end of Memorial Day weekend. 

This reminded me of the good old days, when the wineries in Napa Valley used to have free, wine tastings. How was it being received by members? Judging by the crowd and the tip bowl, it was getting a very warm reception. Haley, another staff member who was doing the pouring the following evening, said it is the club’s way of giving back to its members and creating an atmosphere where people could mingle.

It was also Taco Thursday. A long table and grill were set up right next to the free booze. Grab and go tacos with fresh healthy ingredients were made right on the spot. At $3.00 a taco, it was a deal. After finishing my glass of wine, and complimentary, small cup of pretzel snacks that came with it, I bought three tacos to go and a can of Organic Light beer.

I had done a blog post on the very colorful grand opening of Cafe Vida last August and got acquainted with Jose’, the ever friendly, hardworking food service coordinator seen here grilling the chicken for the tacos. The other hard working members of the staff I photographed with Jose’ are Juan and John. It was John’s last day. He's leaving for Florida to study to become a commercial airline pilot.

Bay Club is always surprising and delighting its members by introducing new food and drink themes, organizing parties, and events like Margarita night, Sunday breakfast burritos to go, or to eat on the outdoor patio dining area around the fire pit and overlooking the family pool. Most National holidays are celebrated including the 4th of Juloy so members and their families have another opportunity to bond with one another. Their exemplary hospitality makes members feel right at home and I am grateful for the extra touches they employ to make us happy. 

I also have to give props to my loving wife Cecile, who continuing the Mexican theme made a killer Mexican Chile Casserole (last photo) a few days later for our son Jason and I. Es muy delicioso!

A Toast to My Paisano the Saint on St. Patrick's Day! Say What? Read On!

During yoga today, our substitute yoga teacher named June was wearing green for St. Patrick’s Day. As she looked around the yoga studio she said, “I am going to have to pinch you for not wearing green.” 
But, St. Patrick and his followers, would have had to deal with being pinched since back in the day they wore "St. Patrick’s Blue.” In fact, so did the Irish military. The color green became popular after it was linked to the Irish Independence Movement in the late 18th century. It made me think of other myths associated with this popular holiday.

Though St. Patrick is considered the patron saint of Ireland for making his mark by introducing Christianity to Ireland in 432 AD, he wasn’t even born in Ireland. Historians believe that he was born in Kilpatrick, near Dumbarton in Scotland which was technically part of Britain at the time. His parent’s Calpurnius and Conchessa were Italian and lived on a British estate. So, as my late father Frank—who
loved to read religious history and was a Catholic seminarian for a year would say, "technically St. Patrick was Italian.” Yes, we all laughed and thought he was off his rocker. But, do yourself a favor folks, do a Google search! It is not uncommon for common day myths to collide
with history. It happens all the time. This saintly guy is my “paisano,” the equivalent of “homie” to Italians and Italian Americans. It appears that the common saying: “everyone is a little Irish on St. Patrick’s Day” requires a bit of revision. 

Another example is that Irish folklore states that St. Patrick gets the credit for driving all the snakes our of Ireland. But, scientists point out that according to the fossil record, Ireland was going through an Ice Age and was too cold to host any reptiles. Mythologists believe it as a metaphor for getting rid of the pagans who were referred to as "snakes."

Drinking was prohibited on March 17, St. Patrick’s Day for most of the 20th century because it was deemed mostly a religious holiday in Ireland. This changed when it was converted to a national holiday. Since 1762, when Irish soldiers serving in the English military marched through the streets of NYC proclaiming their connection with their Irish roots, over a quarter of a million people have marched on Fifth Avenue on St Patrick’s Day. 

Photos: The delicious chocolate and banana cupcakes with the 3 leaf clovers and that say kiss me were bought at the iconic “Icing On the Cake” after my dental hygiene appointment. A cute young Asian vendor at the Farmers Market with the green antenna hair clip. Eating Irish green sprinkled cookies and drinking a non-alcoholic lemonade and fresh ginger (I know boring but good:-)

Enjoying & Photographing the Cloud Play & the Wildlife in Between the Serial Rainfall

“Nature is at work building and pulling down, creating and destroying, keeping everything whirling and flowing, allowing no rest but in rhythmical motion, chasing everything in endless song out of one beautiful form into another.”—John Muir

These photos were taken in the last 72 hours between the series of rainfalls we’ve been having of late in the South Bay, most of them where we live and the rest between going to Courtside Bay club and running errands.

Photographers will tell you that the best time to take a photograph is immediately after it rains. During a rain storm the clouds are diffuse, dark and murky. But afterwards there is a golden opportunity—a moment of unparalleled clarity. The cloud formation one sees can be so dramatic. After a storm passes, the blue sky emerges adding a stunning contrast to the broken clouds. 

The birds, Geese and ducks take shelter in a rain storm. It’s a myth that ducks like the rain, other than perhaps a misty rain. Turtles retreat to lower levels, then when the sun pops out the geese and ducks can be seen gliding gently on the pond again and the turtles can be found sunbathing on the rocks. The ponds and lake become still and the landscape and flowers glisten again.

Quoting John Muir again, “Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy,” while every care in the world will “drop off like autumn leaves.”

And finally, ending with a poem that I adapted by Catherine Defreitas called: 

“Rain by Mother Nature.”

"She sets up and dims the lights
…wind blowing through lush green trees
With the sun peaking over the glittering hills…
She slips away and hides in solitude
To write another song
To shatter the earthly silence
Once again to amaze us all
And shower us with ‘Rain’”

It looks like we are in for another round of rain.
Enjoy!

Why the Beer Yoga Phenomenon & Other Controversial Yoga Trends are Alarming Purists

“If you are going to yoga with the goal of getting high or buzzed, at least do so after yoga and not before or during class…Anything that alters your natural state of mind is no longer yoga in my book.”
—Jake Panasevich, Contributor, US News & World Report

In a 1940 Professor Walter Kitschnig told Holyoke College students to “keep their minds open—but not so open that your brains fall out.” 

I had been meaning to write this post for a some time. What prompted me to write it today is a couple of photos that were texted to me yesterday by our friends and neighbors Susan and Nelson Bye with the following message: “Thinking of you at the Hoffbrauhaus in Las Vegas.” They were having dinner and watched people doing yoga poses with beer bottles and found it humorous. Little did they know that posting about alternative and controversial yoga programs that were popping up around the world were on my “To Do List.”

Yoga has been taught as a sequence of physical poses to get fit and to calm the mind from the stresses of the day. For those wanting to take it further, it can be a pathway to personal transformation. But, there are a number of outlets that are selling the loftier charm of taking “inner calm” to a “higher level” (pun intended). The original “Bier Yoga” ads presents itself as the “marriage of two great centuries-old therapies for mind, body and soul” that pair the philosophies of yoga with the pleasure of beer drinking to take one to a higher state of being (again, pun intended). Two Berlin-based instructors were inspired to offer Bier Yoga classes after seeing it done at Burning Man (Esquire: January 01, 2017).

In recent years the focus has been to lower the bar to welcome the greatest number of people. But, the concern among mainstream yoga studios and aficionados is how to best accomplish this without diluting the essence of yoga.

There has been a great debate taking place on the world stage on whether yoga has “sold its soul” by passing off anything and everything as YOGA and pushing towards global commercialization rather than staying closer to its spiritual roots. Those roots include adhering to social and personal ethics, proper breath control, and reprograming the mind through mindfulness meditation to think in healthier, less stressful ways and create your own inner sanctuary of peace. The latter is becoming more common place in sports, high tech and financial service companies, schools, fire departments and law enforcement to name a few.

There are a plethora of yoga styles for the adventurous, some utilizing experimental musical genres, or alternative venues like beach yoga, yoga in the park, on a roof top, at an art gallery, nightclub, vineyard, and farm.

There are dog yoga classes with your four legged-friend, aerial yoga, laughing yoga, and even naked yoga that proposes to transform personal limitations, inhibitions and shame into a realm of personal freedom. On the more artistic side, there is glow yoga that utilizes fluorescent body paint that glows in the dark.

Then there are those who are pushing the envelope even further with cannabis (pot) yoga, and at the far extreme, the highly controversial: “gun yoga,” created by someone who was stationed with the US ARMY in India. I’m not even going to touch that one as it is no where near being on my bucket list, but have included a photo.

In closing, there is no way to put a lid on experimentation especially with the young and carefree. In the 60s I did plenty of experimentation. Gradually I upgraded my addictions to healthier outlets like yoga and meditation. When I first started doing yoga over 30 years ago, there were very few males in class.  If the only thing that is going help women get their husbands and boyfriends to take a yoga class is Beer Yoga or ganja yoga, until they find out they can obtain an organic high without the intoxicating additives, who am I to argue? But for those of you who are looking for a healthier workout that honors the mind, body and spirit in it’s purest form, your average accredited neighborhood yoga studio is still the way to go. As for me, I prefer to slowly sip a cold mug of beer with friends without yoga being a distraction:-).

Postscript: For the sake of fair reporting there are some teachers around the country that do straight up yoga classes with the add-on being pairing it with a beer at the local pub afterwards. They are happy to report that many of their male students confide in them that they would have never set foot in a yoga class were it not for the promise of beer. By the end of class, they were amazed how good they felt and have joined the growing ranks of students worldwide discovering the many benefits of yoga.

Photo Credit for first 2: Susan Zanders Bye & Nelson Bye
Photo Credit 3: Rediff.com
Photo Credit 4: Indiatimes.com
Photo: Jerry & Me drinking a cold one in Cambodia

Capturing The Beauty of The Mahogany Mourning Cloak Butterly While It was Sunbathing

"Nevermore will a flying flower drift by you unnoticed..."
—Flutter-Blog 

During a walk on the trails of Rinconada Hills with my wife Cecile, I experienced my first sighting of a Mourning Cloak Butterfly (Nymphalis Antiopa, 1758 by Linnaeaus) basking in the sun. It was laying flat atop a low lying green plant with dry woody stems near the water’s edge of a cascading pond near our town home. I was amazed it allowed me to get close enough to photograph it without flying off.

This Mahogany brown butterfly with light tannish yellow edges is named after the funeral shawls worn over a pale dress or petticoat by grieving widows. The darker brown band around the main wing is accented with pale blue-lavender spots that adds to its beauty.

The Mourning Cloak butterflies, do not migrate long distances but hibernate over winter through a process called “cryopreservation,” that involves the secretion of chemicals which acts like anti-freeze during the winter months. In the spring they emerge as adults ready to mate (much sooner than other butterflies). Males mate with several females. Sadly, these stunning and graceful creatures live for about a year and die soon after mating. I discovered that the reason it was basking in the sun is to warm up its flight muscles making it possible for it to fly about. Actually all butterflies need to warm up before they can fly. It is theorized that the dark wings of a Mourning Cloak make it easier to absorb the spring sun. The Mourning Cloak is found in many regions of the world including California. One of the reasons it is so widespread is that this striking flier uses a variety of host trees such as the Cottonwood, Willow, Popular and Elm to flourish. Their main diet is tree sap and decaying fruit and they extract salts and minerals form mud. Their main predators are insect eating birds. The males are highly territorial and defend their territory from other males, other butterflies, hummingbirds and even Scrub Jays. They have also been seen head-butting a human hand, demonstrating that even a delicate butterfly can put up a fight if necessary.

I was invited to send my photo to inaturalist.org to help scientists interested in studying years fluctuations in the butterfly population. With more rainfall occurring in California following years of drought the Mourning Cloak butterfly has been making a comeback.

Feeding, Riding & Bathing an Elephant on the Left Bank of the Mekong RIver in Laos

Feeding, Riding & Bathing an Elephant on the Left Bank of the Mekong RIver in Laos

“To me, the word wisdom means ancient knowledge…the kind you not only see but feel when you look into the eyes of an elephant or stop…to marvel at the deep wrinkles on its skin, both of which contain the truths learned from each intentional step their…feet and those of their ancestors have placed on the earth.”—Molly Friedenfeld

Eight of 16 in our tour group were driven to the elephant conservation center Ban Xiang Hai situated on the left bank of the Mekong River, north of Luang Prabang, Laos. It was an optional tour offered by Overseas Adventure Travels (OAT). I partnered up with Ed from Colorado. The elephant we were assigned was 32 years old and she weighed 7,495 pounds. She is a vegetarian and eats a variety of food at the camp and in the rain forest and jungle that includes bananas, sugar cane and pineapple. She consumes 551 pounds of food and drinks 17 gallons each day. She swims at Mekong River 4 or 5 times daily. She has lived at the camp for three years and enjoys the company of the other elephants and appeared to enjoy interacting with us throughout our visit. According to its mahout (elephant keeper and trainer) before arriving at the camp she had a difficult life working in servitude for the logging industry, forced to put in up to 12 hours a day—every day. This was the logical argument given as a reason to allow leading tourists on elephant rides.

When we got to the elephant camp we saw the high wooden mounting platform that makes it easier to mount the elephant. After the mahout secured us in place on the wooden howdah (bench) that was placed over a stack of blankets to protect its skin, we were given cut sugar cane to feed the elephant as a way to bond with it. Back in the day I had ridden elephants in India and Thailand (with my son Jason) but never got to feed them. It was a amazing how our elephant would arc its trunk up and over its head in a circular fashion and wait until we placed the food in the curled end of her trunk where she would grasp it securely. But, one wasn’t enough. She would wait patiently until we placed 4 or 5 sugar canes in her grasp before placing it in her mouth. This eating ritual was playfully repeated several times.

The mahout walked in front of the elephant whispering gentle commands as we cantered side to side with each step of this gentle, intelligent creature. From the beginning of the ride, we witnessed the mahout treating the elephant with absolute compassion and kindness. Toward the end of our ride, the young elephant handler gracefully hopped up from a stack of quarry rock and sat on top of the neck of the elephant and led it to the river. He handed Ed and I a long stick and scooper at the end and directed us to repeatedly scoop the water up and pour it over the neck of the elephant. He then gently massaged the water into its neck to help relax it and cool it down. When we made our way back to the elephant conservation camp, we dismounted and the howdah was removed from the elephant’s back and we got to feed it again, this time from ground level. Later, the mahout took it to the Mekong river to get it cleaned and hydrated.

Historically, Laos was once known as the Land of a Million Elephants. Regretably, there are only 800 of these majestic trunk-swingling creatures left, or half of what dwells in the wild. In the 1980s there were an estimated 4000 elephants in Laos, meaning the population has plummeted by more than 75% in the past 30 years. I learned that elephants have no stomach, whis is why they require a lot food and drink a lot of water. They only require 3-4 hours of sleep per day and can live upwards of 90-100 years.

An elephant can carry 30% of its weight. They claim that placing two tourists on a howdah is less than 440 pounds and presents no problem for the elephant. That being said, riding elephants is controversial. The ideal would be for elephant camps like the one our daughter Michelle and husband Kyle visited in Chiang Mai, Thailand last October that is a pure elephant sanctuary that doesn't offer rides. But the sad and harsh reality is that most remaining mahouts would not be able to handle the upkeep of maintaining their elephants without it. The alternative is engaging the elephant in the illegal logging industry or selling them to questionable Chinese sources that would place them in zoos, entertainment venues or farmed, so that their ivory can be harvested. It is a sad but true reality with no easy answers.
Notes: Aside from Ed and I, the folks to our left are Jane and Wayne, and to our right, Mary and Tom and Debbie and Karen.

Cherry Blossoms (Sakura) and Stormy Sunsets

After almost five glorious sightseeing weeks touring Southeast Asia we have been hanging low waiting patiently for the jet lag to pass. While it is always a real treat to experience the natural beauty of other countries, it is also a joy to view it from your own window or the walking paths. In this case, the elegant Cherry blossoms. The other day the sun was bright and full against a blue sky and last evening the sunset was bright and shrouded by mysterious-looking storm clouds that ushered in a day of rain that has continued today as the morning unfolds. Though the photos hint of early Spring it is bone chilling cold out here in California. Even our son Jason's dog Daisy was feeling the chill and we had to put her insulated rain-resistant puffer vest on.

In Japan a cherry blossom is called Sakura. It is a popular name for girls. Many schools in Japan plant sakura on their grounds. When they are at their peak, businesses vary their trading hours to give their staff time to enjoy them.
It is called “Hanami” which in Japanese literally means “flower viewing.”

While Cecile and I have experienced the majestic beauty of the Cherry Blossom season in Japan some years ago,
I feel blessed that they appeared outside our stain glass window and outside my home office window. 
I never waste time doing something society deems important or "productive" when I can stop for a spell and enjoy the transient beauty of the cherry blossoms. 

Here are two poems that pay tribute to the joyful flowering of cherry blossoms and full moons nestling in amidst the storm clouds:

Sakura

Soft, Delicate, Small, Fragrant
Pink and white
Flutter to the ground
To form a gentle blanket
That gently rustle
In the cool spring breeze
I watch in awe
At your beauty…
Oh majestic
And delicate one
Whose name is
Sakura
—Semerian Perez 

"Though outwardly a gloomy shroud,
The inner half of every cloud
Is bright and shining [more so by the setting sun]:
I therefore turn my clouds about  
And always wear them inside out
To show the [silver lining]."
—Ellen Thorneycroft Fowler

Final Goodbye Images of Bangkok Before our Journey Home

“Travel opens your mind as few things do. It is its own form of hypnotism, and I am forever under its spell." —Libba Bray

What was supposed to be a 4 day layover before returning home to California became a joyful surprise in and of itself. The five star Marriott Marquis in Queen's Village was truly a delight at a reasonable cost. We had a birds eye view of the cityscape from our 36th floor room. The food was superb, the service was beyond peer and a return to Benchasiri Park 20 feet from the back entrance to the hotel was well worth a return visit. The pyramid and topiary maze and the sculpture of a musician playing his drum was magical. The black 3 faced statue is a Hindu Shrine in front of the Marriott was unexpected. We missed the Kung Fu tea master, but here is a photo image of him performing his art form. Finally, the Swedish massage at the hotel's Quan Spa left me transported to another universe. Just what I needed before our long trip back home. That said, all good things must come to an end and we were excited to return to California. Goodby Southeast Asia, you were a delight! Thank you for the cultural, esthetic and spiritual experience of a lifetime!

A Walk in a Park, Pizza at Mozza’s & Attending a Festival Ordered by the New King of Thailand

"That Friend Who You May Not See Very Often, But The Moment You Reconnect Feels Like Yesterday." —Country Thang

We were so happy to connect with our Thai friend and yoga buddy, Cherry Rungsea from California, who has been visiting her elderly mom. We took a walk through the grand Benchasiri Park that was built on 11.6 acres and is situated across the street from our hotel, the Marriott Marquis in Queen’s Park in Bangkok. This is not just any neighborhood park. It is situated around an ornamental lake and contains a dozen pieces of contemporary sculptures by talented Thai artists and is often used for open air events. There is a large designated area where people go jogging and to play volleyball and basketball. After purchasing some gift items at Jim Thompson, located in the colorfully decorated Emporium, that has earned street creds for having a legacy in the silk trade, we decided we were all in the mood for a good pizza.

We stumbled across a trendy Italian eatery called Mozza’s (short for mozzarella) by Cocotte located on the ground floor of the Emquartier Mall. It was pitched as La Cucina Di Mamma (Mother’s kitchen). Cherry treated us to a “Carpi Salerno” pizza with Parma ham, soft Italian buffalo cheese, basil and cherry tomatoes and a "Norma pizza" with fried eggplant, fresh ricotta and salted ricotta. There was no denying that management was at the top of the their game in making pizza. It was, “Molto Bene.

Following lunch, and knowing we wanted to do something non-touristy, Cherry invited us to join her in attending a historical-themed festival for the citizens of Thailand to pay homage to past monarchs. The month long program was ordered by King Maha Vajiralongkorn following Thailand’s emergence from a year of mourning for his much revered father, the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej, whose reign lasted seven decades. The festival took place at the public square of the Royal Plaza. 

The attendees were encouraged to wear traditional Thai clothes and 19th century fashions.
As for my attire, I was forced to buy a wrap-around men’s folk skirt to wear because my knees were showing. Normally, this is standard request when entering temples so I was thrown off guard. However, at least it matched my hat. Besides, who was I to argue with polices of the King. This event turned out to be one of the highlights of the day. It was festive, colorful and charming, and great people watching. Also, Cecile and I had the unique experience of practically being the only westerners there. We finished up with cold drinks at our hotel and bid Cherry farewell and thanked her for her generosity. 

Photos: The Big Government Building in the backdrop of the 3 young colorfully dressed young women crossing the Royal Plaza is the Royal Reception Hall within Dusit Palace of Bangkok. The Gold Boat is the Royal Boat. Photo of the late King with his camera. He was an avid photographer. Finally, the young boys in the lime shirts are selling offerings.

Farewell Lunch, Drinks and Dinner with our Tour Group & Cecile and I are Back to Thailand for 4 More Days

Cecile and I and our small congenial tour group had our final lunch at Pho Hung, cocktails on the top floor of our hotel and a farewell dinner at Viet Village Restaurant in Saigon with Lin, our main guide, from Overseas Adventure Travels OAT). Together we toured and learned about the Ancient Kingdoms of Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam. Arthur, our local guide was also present. Together with our pre-Trip to Myanmar (Burma) that Cecile and I did on our own, we have been out of the country for one month and I have to say even though the time passed quickly, the memories will last a lifetime. We are currently back in Bangkok, Thailand for four nights at the Marriott Marquis where we are going to relax by the pool, do some leisurely shopping and hopefully hook up with a friend before heading back home to California.

This was our first trip with OAT and I have to say we have been very impressed with the first hand knowledge and insight of the trip leaders. They made the history and culture come alive. They bent over backwards to anticipate our every need. They displayed unbridled enthusiasm, caring personalities, and with respect to Lin, a wickedly funny sense of humor. They demonstrated an ability to bring a diverse groups of travelers together and provide an atmosphere of shared experiences that made it possible for our group to bond together. Finally, they introduced us to unique culinary experiences we never thought we'd ever be a part of. Southeast Asian countries are known for their gracious hospitality and along the way we were touched by it many times. Throughout our journey, Lin made it clear that we would not only going to witness and experience the beauty and the spirituality of these countries, but we would be exposed to the poverty and the dark side of history as well. Yet, to be fair all countries have a darker side including our own, and life goes on. Our experience in this area made me think about a quote by L.R. Knost who once said: “Do not be dismayed by the brokenness of the world. All things break. And all things can be mended. Not with time, as they say, but with intention. So go. Love intentionally, extravagantly, unconditionally. The broken world waits in the darkness for the light [you bring to it].”

Exploring the Underground Bunkers of the Vietnamese Communist Forces and Shaking Hands with a Viet Cong Veteran who Lost his Arm During Battle

After breakfast today, our tour bus driver drove us to the Cu Chi Tunnels—a mile-long underground maze where thousands of fighters and villagers hid and fought during the Vietnam War, referred to by locals as the “American War.” The conflict began in 1955-1975. The South Vietnamese Communists, or Viet Cong, built an elaborate and vast network of tunnels in and around the district of Cu Chi and worked continually over the years to expand the multi-level network. The tunnels include mess halls, meeting rooms, an operating theater, tiny cinema, small factories, and vast ammunitions stores, allowed the Viet Cong to control large areas of Saigon. Today, Cu Chi Tunnels provide invaluable insight into the war era. 

We had the unusual opportunity to meet a retired Viet Cong Veteran named Chia who was invited by Overseas Adventure Travels (OAT) to meet with our group to answer any questions we had about the tunnels. Chia is married, has four kids and seven grandkids. After taking down an enemy tank in November 1, 1967, a second tank fired back and shot his right arm off. He collects about $195 a month which is sufficient for his living standards and he and his family get free education and health care. He told us that the underground bunker was capable of holding twelve thousand soldiers but normally accommodated an average of 2500-3000. The main problem was getting enough oxygen, so they created “air holes,” which made it easier for the soldiers to breathe. When asked how he decided to join the communists he said he was merely following family tradition. They began building the tunnels in 1954 which allowed Ho Chi Minh to defeat the French. He said no one wins in war and seemed to harbor no bitterness towards the American people. He said it was very apparent that most US citizens were against the war. Afterwards, a few of us took photos with him. While standing by his side I placed my arm around his back and I was moved when he took his "only" hand and gently placed it in mine.

Chia thanked us for coming to Vietnam and invited us to tell our friends to come visit his country.
We were then assigned a young soldier to show us the underground bunkers and how to enter into them for those who were willing. It was an amazing experience moving from descending into one tunnel and getting out through another. Our Vietnamese guide, Arthur demonstrates the tool soldiers used to dig out the tunnels.

On the bus ride home, our Thai tour guide Lin led us in singing the iconic 60s lyrics to the anti-war protest song: “Where Have All The Flowers Gone,” by Peter, Paul and Mary which essentially is a meditation on the horrors and losses of the Vietnam war which begged the answer to the question from our government, “When Will They Ever Learn?”

After the tour of the tunnels it was so nice to come out to the other side and be greeted by the parents of three beautiful young children who were only too eager to take a photo with us (see photo). The last photo of me duck walking out of the tunnel was unexpectantly taken by an enterprising photographer.

Exploring the Famous & Scenic Mekong Delta on Sampans & Paddle Boats, A lunchtime Feast & Dancing the Night Away

"Southeast Asia has a real grip on me. From the very first time I went there, its was a fulfillment of my childhood fantasies of the way travel should be."
—Anthony Bourdain

We journeyed outside of Ho-Chi-Minh City to Vietnam’s famous Mekong Delta. We stopped at Cafe Sake for a bathroom break and coffee and relaxed on some hammocks, before continuing on to the picturesque province of Ben Tre near where our local guide Arthur’s family is from. Our group walked through the village along the canal which also serves as the areas irrigation system. People move to this area to escape the fast pace and noise of Ho-Chi-Min City. I can see why. We hardly saw a soul and it was so serene walking through the coconut plantations and passed quiet homes this area is known for. We saw a beautiful Torch Ginger Flower seen in one of my photos, Pomelo fruit, and Longan (Lychee type fruit).

At the end of our walk we climbed into a skinny sampan boat and was handed a conical hat to put on our heads. We cruised the canals and quiet waterways of the Delta. Cecile and I were accompanied by Lin, our intrepid, guide from Overseas Adventures Travels (OAT) who has been with us from the beginning of our tour and of course the oarsman who propelled us through the groves of water based coconut trees. We were taken by the simple living and the quiet scenic beauty of this part of Vietnam. We stopped at a village factory to learn how they make the sticky, toffee-like coconut candy. We were offered shot glasses of tea with honey and cumquat as seen by the photo of me and fellow traveler, Charlie from Florida. We were also shown how they break a coconut to get the juice out and tasted the coconut fruit. We cruised to nearby Phoenix Island where Arthur told us about a religion started by Ong Dao Dua, known as the Coconut Monk, after engaging in meditation at Chau Doc’s Sam Mountain. It was a fusion of Buddhism and Christianity. Toward the end of our visit we tried on a live Python on our shoulders as demonstrated by Arthur, and I was invited to have a beer and fresh fruit with a group of local guys from the village.

We switched off to a large paddle boat, enjoyed sipping fresh coconut juice and pulled onto a dock of a local plantation style restaurant for an elaborate six course meal that included sticky rice globular bowls cut into sections, vegetables, a crepe type dish, and a full large whole fish called Gourami that the staff deboned and prepared for us. 

When we returned on our bus for our one and half hour bus ride back to our hotel, we napped and had our own private party, singing and dancing on the top floor of the hotel, overlooking Ho-Chi-Minh City's version of a Times Square building that was changing colors every few seconds. Our guide Lin had a playlist that got us rocking the night away. We then had pizza and pasta with newly made friends Eileen and Jerry from Buffalo, NY, before calling it a night.

Good Morning & Good Evening Vietnam! A Local's and Tourist Paradise of Fun Activities During TET

Touring the Presidential Palace, Participating in a Lion-Dragon Ceremony, a Water puppet Show and a Cyclo Ride through Ho-Chi-Minh City were just some of the activities in store for us.

After breakfast at our hotel we set out to tour the grounds and interior of the Presidential Palace (aka The Reunification Center), the former office of the residence of South Vietnam’s president during the Vietnam War. The communist Vietnamese won its independence in 1975, right after the tank crashed through the palace gates, symbolizing the “Fall of Saigon.” The tank still graces its front lawn. Even though the city is officially called Ho-Chi-Minh City, many people still call it by its cooler name Saigon.

After the Palace, we visited a day in the life of local residents in a poor section of the city. One couple with their son welcomed us into to their cramped flat to see how they live, knowing that comparatively speaking we all had a much higher standard of living in the US. Two symbols that stood out throughout the neighborhoods we visited: The red flag and five pointed yellow star is the National flag of Vietnam and symbolizes the history of Vietnam’s anti-colonial struggle and later becoming a communist state. The red refers to the “red blood,” of resistance fighters and “yellow skin.” The hammer and the sickle is the symbol of the Communist Party of Vietnam.

We visited a Chinese temple in Cho Lon, Saigon where people were lighting incense sticks and offering to the gods and their ancestors. One of our group heard what appeared to be a drum beating and Lin, our general tour guide for the trip said lets go across the street to see the Unicorn/Lion/Dragon dance. Boy, was that a great call. This Vietnamese traditional custom is usually performed on major festivals and major occasions, especially on Tet (Lunar New Year). The belief is that the dance dispels evil spirits, and brings about good luck for the rest of the year. There was a young dance and musician group performing. Apparently, a local English-speaking business owner sponsored the event and by the coaxing of our guide allowed us to participate with him, his family and the neighborhood. The young performers are paid for their participation. 

After a nap, we resumed our activities by attending a traditional "Vietnamese Water Puppet Show" that dates back to the 11th century in the Red River Delta area of northern Vietnam. When the rice fields would flood, villagers would entertain each other. I was equally entertained by two young girls directly in front of me who were enjoying the show with their parents. Able to suspend reality, you could see by their actions this felt very real for them.

After the show, we rode a rickshaw (called Cyclo) that have essentially been banned (except for tourists) due to traffic jams cramping the city residents. One person was assigned to each cyclo driver. My driver was called Thien and he began by taking a photo of me. I even managed a selfie along the way that he participated in. It is totally mesmerizing to see the motor scooters buzz around the streets just inches apart from one another. There are about 13 million people and a mind boggling 8 million motorbikes.
Without question, this was a real highlight for the group. We caravanned around town on the way to happy hour at a local beer club followed by another delightful dinner before calling it a night. The Orange Drink I'm holding up that I had for lunch is called a detox beverage: Fresh orange juice, carrot and ginger.

Enjoying the Explosion of Color in Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) During the TET Holiday Season

“We travel to open our hearts and eyes and learn more about the world than our newspapers will accommodate.” 
—Pico Iyer

Cecile, myself and the Overseas Adventure Travels (OAT) group landed in Saigon this afternoon. Before checking into the Nahtha 3 Hotel near the center of town, we went to see the Cathedral of Notre Dame which marks the center of the city’s French colonial heritage. Though not as grand as the one in Paris, it is still a beautiful site to visit. It boasts high towers, stained glass windows, wooden pews and classic plaid floor tiles. There is also a towering Virgin Mary in the backdrop. Unlike the other Southeast Asian cities we have visited thus far which are predominately Buddhist, Vietnam is about 55% Buddhist.

After seeing the Cathedral we then went across the street to see Saigon’s Central Post Office that began construction in 1886. It’s French colonial architecture makes it another renowned standout for the city. It was designed by Gustave Eiffel, the same architect who engineered the Eiffel Tower in Paris. It is fully functional and a top tourist attraction. It also has a portrait of Ho Chi Minh on the back wall. Cecile and I had our photo taken in front of the stunning, yellow flowering apricot tree. We then went to the Saigon La Poste Cafe next door and created a post card of our facial images behind red cardboard cutouts. In addition to the Chinese New Year festivities still going on, the Vietnamese are also celebrating their New Year (TET). Many of the commercial buildings in the center of town, are all lit up. Some of the lights are leftover from the Christmas Holidays. The photographs I have taken here are of colorful red and yellow dragons, merchants like the Beer Club and Diamond Department store decorating their exterior with colorful lights and decorations. I also photographed street vendors that were out in mass, locals and tourists enjoying early evening strolls and a son and his mother having a tender moment while waiting for customers to buy their wares. It is a reminder that all we have are these precious moments to enjoy and savor as life goes by in a flash.