Visiting B.B. King's Museum & the Ebony Club House of Blues featuring Jake and the Pearl Street Jumpers

"You only live...once, and when you die you're done, so let the good times roll."—B.B. King

Cecile and I, Susan and Nelson disembarked the American Queen at Greenville, the “Heart & Soul of the Mississippi Delta. We perused some of main attractions in town such as the Flood Museum, Hebrew Union Congregation established in 1880 and rebuilt in 1906, and The First National Bank Building built in 1903.

The next stop was the B.B. King Museum, the number one tourist attraction that was located in King’s hometown of Indianola. It was an old cotton mill where B.B., the son of a Sharecropper worked as a kid. The first thing you see when you see is his tour bus parked in the parking lot.

When we entered the museum we were welcomed by staff and escorted into a room where the United Male Chorus sang several sets of old time, inspirational, gospel music which had us clapping our hands and tapping our feet.

Afterwards, we entered the museum, watched a 15 minute narrated film of recordings and concerts of the greatest Blues Master of all time. There was a part in the film when B.B. admitted to being a naughty young man and his father said, “Boy, you might as well give your heart to God because your tail end belongs to me.”

After viewing all the exhibits and visiting the gift shop we paid our respects at B.B’s gravesite adjacent to the museum. It’s been said that when he was buried they didn’t have enough room in his coffin for his lifelong muse guitar, Lucille.

We then went to the Ebony Club House of Blues for lunch and were entertained by Jake and the Pearl Street Jumpers. They were awesome. One of the guitarists with a red guitar at the right of the stage is the grandson of Muddy Water.
A woman on our tour named Laney began dancing with so much passion, it was as if a tornado hit hit land. Just as I began to take a photo of the band she twirled her scarf over her head and I caught it on camera. She was so into it that Jake invited her up on the stage to dance with him. Afterwards, he said this music sneaks up on you.

Among other songs, the band played Tennessee Whiskey. Setting up the song, Jake said, “We have whiskey here that is 200 proof, we call it moonshine.”

On the way back to the American Queen, our guide said, “Now, I will tell you about B.B. King that they didn’t mention at the museum.” B.B. had 15 children by 15 different women which is ironic since doctors told him he could never have kids since he had a low sperm count. He had 50 grandchildren. He died at 93 and his estate was sued. Unfortunately, the only ones who will see any money are the attorneys. But, B.B. undeniably brought so much joy to a lot of his fans, and his legend will live on. Cecile and I had several opportunities to see him perform. The first time was in smaller venues in Chicago when we were in our early 20s. He was friends with Elvis and Frank Sinatra. Elvis got him to play in white clubs and Ole Blues arranged to have him play in Vegas.

After a nap and dinner, we hooked up with the Bye’s on the American Queen for the 7:45 PM show: "Let Freedom Ring" featuring Jay (Bird) Chalmers & the Syncopators. Jay is known for being Tennessee’s Best Live One-Man-Keyboard Entertainer. He jokingly stated that one of his CDs was a million dollar seller, meaning he has one million dollars worth of CDs in his cellar. Here is a photo that was taken of Jay and I at the end of the show.

An Evening with American Humorist & Novelist Mark Twain Aboared the American Queen

“The reports of my death are greatly exaggerated.”—Mark Twain

"Life is short. Break the rules!...Kiss Slowly. Love truly. Laugh uncontrollably and never regret anything that makes you smile."—Mark Twain

We spent An Evening with Mark Twain while leaving the port of Natchez, Mississippi. Yes, I know he is supposed to be dead—again. Read on!
Cecile and I and Susan and Nelson Bye caught up with the great American humorist, novelist and social critic (formerly known as Samuel Clemens) before and after his performance (see photos). He said that Tom Sawyer was easy to write about because “I was writing about me,” then segued into “I wonder if God created man because he was disappointed in the monkey.”

While in London back in the day, someone started a rumor that he was gravely ill. This was followed by another rumor that he had died.

According to a widely repeated, legend, one major American newspaper actually printed his obituary. When Twain was told about this by a reporter, he quipped:

“The reports of my death are greatly exaggerated.”

This was one of the first documented reports of FAKE News:-)

Twain couldn’t decide whether to be amused or annoyed when a New York Journal news representative informed him about a report that he was dying in poverty in London.

It was indeed true that in late May, 1897 the English correspondent for the New York Journal, Frank Marshall White, contacted Twain in London to inquire about his health when he was in the midst of a world wide tour. He had hoped to use his fees from speaking engagements to pay off his considerable amount of debts he owed in the US, due to a series of unsuccessful investments and publishing venture.

Twain said,“I can understand perfectly how the report of my illness got about, I have even heard on good authority that I was dead. James Ross Clemons, a cousin of mine, was seriously ill two or three weeks ago in London, but is well now. The report of my illness grew out of his illness. The report of my death was an exaggeration.” (See image of Twain’s handwritten notes about the incident).

Mark Twain played by actor, Lewis Hankins

Source: http://www.thisdayinquotes.com/…/reports-of-my-death-are-gr…

My Wife Cecile & I Doing Time at the Louisiana State Penitentiary—Known as Angola

Are you ready to go to prison, asked out tour guide? “You look like one shady bunch,” she joked. The last two times I found myself in a prison was visiting Nelson Mandela’s old jail cell with my brother-in-law, Joseph MCallister at Robbin’s Island in South Africa; and prior to this during my three month podiatry medical externship at Stateville Correctional Center in Jolliet, Illinois in the late 70s

We first toured the grounds with the Byes and our group. If you didn’t know you were on prison grounds you could have easily mistaken it for a country club or a rich farmer’s estate with wild lush grass and narrow creek beds and lakes running through it. During our visit, we were introduced to a fit 50 year old "lifer" named Daryl who has served 25 yeas behind bars. He was wearing a red t-shirt that read: Finding Higher Power 2018 Angola. He wasn’t permitted to talk about his crime, but rumor had it, he had committed murder while under the influence of alcohol. He has been a model prisoner, serving as a pastor and mentor to younger inmates. After the Q&A I told him I sat meditation with former inmates from San Quentin and Folsom at a meditation center in Redwood City, CA. Meditation has proven to reduce the recidivism rate of inmates. And, in the case of lifers, it helps them make peace with themselves and accept responsibility for the poor choices they made.

Afterwards, we visited with another prison inmate named Darren who was caring for a 27 years old Percheron horse, named Big Boy who weighed 2400 pounds. Big Boy was a beauty. He was gentle and seemed to love people. Darren told us that the horse was mainly used for crowd control during special events and for pulling the hearse during funerals of inmates. 

There are 6300 all male prisoners at the Louisiana State Penitentiary nicknamed the “Alcatraz of the South” and “The Farm” which was established in the 1800s. It is named after the 18,000 acre Angola Plantations and beyond that after the African Country that was the origin of many enslaved African brought to Louisiana. Angola is the largest maximum-security prison in the United States. 75% of the prison population is black and 25% white. The average age is 18-80. 5000 prisoners are in for life unless pardoned or released through the the great advocacy work of the Innocence Project. The top three crimes that have led up to their incarceration are homicides, aggravated rape and armed robberies.

Angola has become a tourist attraction. More than 75,000 people visit the prison each year. The prison houses the Angola Rodeo, has a 10,000 person arena, concession stands that serves family recipes of the inmates, wild horse racing and other events that bring in about a half a million dollars a year. The funds go towards maintenance of the multiple, chapels on the prison grounds, educational programs, sand seminary classes. An Arts and Crafts show runs during rodeo season featuring paintings by the inmates. There is even a golf course that was built by prisoners. Anyone can play a round of golf (except inmates)for only $10. Angola has its own newspaper, radio and TV station that is run by the inmates. There are 1600 staff members and 2200 head of cattle. It costs $1.43 a meal to provide inmates with 3 square meals a day.
Angola once designated the worst prison in America has come a long way. Except for the 75 men on Death Row, inmates live in dormitories, not cells. They wear T-shirts blue jeans, tennis sneakers. There are no conjugal visits in the state of Louisiana.
The inmates get good medical care and there are no problems recruiting physicians who are paid a good wage.

The Great Storyteller Tour Guides Along the Mississippi who are Making our Journey Come Alive

“Tell me the facts and I’ll learn. Tell me the truth and I’ll believe. But tell me a story and it will live in my heart forever.” – Native American Proverb

After an informative lecture about the Mississippi and a special presentation by special guest, Barbara Barnes Sims, called “Sun Records and the Birth of Rock and Roll," we disembarked and boarded a bus to the Nottoway Plantation, the largest and grandest plantation home in the South. It was completed in 1859 and is known for surviving the Civil War. The 53,000 square foot antebellum mansion was built by sugarcane magnate John Hampden Randolph for his wife and 11 children. Due to it’s elaborate Italianate design it was nicknamed The White Castle of Louisiana. We were greeted by a guide in a Victorian period piece dress who took us through the home. We then headed to the historic Laura Plantation where we learned about the fascinating world of true Louisiana Creoles who lived apart from the American mainstream for over 200 years. Our docent guide, Kati was one of the most prolific guides I have ever experienced during my years of travel. She was so emotive and passionate I felt like we were watching a one woman theatrical performance. She really brought the dark history of slavery to life in a way that would make any credentialed black history professor take notice.

On the way back to the American Queen, Theron, our 50 year old tour bus guide who reminded me of actor Terence Howard who stars in the hit series “Empire,” regaled us with stories like how he met Fats Domino who dated his father’s sister Josephine and how she broke his heart. Domino wrote a song about her called “My Girl Josephine.” Theron’s family has been here for 300 years. He speaks French and Spanish. “Louisiana was exploited by the Spanish and colonized by the French,” he said. At the same time, he told us hostile or not, many countries contributed to Louisiana's culture, especially in the area of cuisine. His parting words before we headed back to our boat was, “Kick back and relax and enjoy life in the Big Easy, and never let your journey end because it’s just the beginning.” When we exited the bus I told him he was a master storyteller. We took a photo together and exchanged contact information.

After a wonderful dinner on the boat with friends Susan and Nelson Bye, we walked around and decided to visit the engine room. Though it was humid it turned out to be a very interesting experience. I introduced myself to one of the crew members named Mark. He told me he was from Minneapolis, MN., works 20 days on and has 20 days off. He has two kids 9 & 5 and was hoping to take his family on a riverboat cruise. He was monitoring a terminal that had a lot of pressure gauge readings. I asked him if the steam engine for a boat is similar to a steam engine train. He said, yes, the only difference is that a steam engine on a boat is like a train engine on steroids.

After watching a “Southern Celebration” show put on by the American Queen Ensemble and the back up band performing some of the best music of the South, we headed to our cabin to relax, and get ready for the next days's adventure.

A Riverboat Cruise Along the Majestic Mississippi Aboard the American Queen

A Riverboat Cruise Along the Majestic Mississippi Aboard the American Queen

"Time is like a river. You cannot touch the same water twice, because the flow that has passed will never pass this way again. Enjoy every moment of your life.” 
—Daily Inspirational Quotes

Cecile and I have never been to the Mississippi nor have we ever been on a river boat cruise. So, when we were invited by Nelson and Susan Bye to join them to experience the legendary thrill of a Mississippi River Cruise, we jumped at the opportunity.

After touring the World War ll museum in New Orleans, and watching a film narrated by actor Tom Hanks, and watched a chorus of students from an International school from New Jersey who were in town for the French Quarter Festival, we made our way to the American Queen on the dock of the River Walk.

As we boarded, a band was playing Dixieland Music on the upper deck including the old spiritual favorite: “When the Saints Go Marching in.” We were served appetizers and shown the way toward our room.
We were lucky to get an upgrade and were placed in room 452 at very end of the Veranda with a river view.
The Mississippi played a pivotal role in the American Civil War. In fact, the control of the river marked a major change in the battle between the Union and the Confederate army.
Steamboat traffic was in full throttle before and after the war. Mark Twain wrote prolifically about it in “Adventures of Huckleberry Finn” and “Life on the Mississippi,” where he recalled his own personal experiences along this famous waterway. The late Johnny Cash sang about the Mississippi in a song called the “Big River.”

But, it is one thing to read or listen to a tale about the Mississippi and another thing to experience its majesty.
After we toured the boat, we put on our orange life west and participated in Coast Guard mandate fire drill and then returned to our room.

The louver doors of our cabin are made of polished wood and the interior is decorated with Victorian patterns, framed photos that celebrates the steamship era.
The Lady’s parlor, and the Men’s card room, are also furnished with antiques and reproductions dating back to the Victorian period.

We ate dinner in the JM White dining room where we were served by Kirk and his assistant Keyah. I had Tuna Tartar, spit pea soup, Spinach salad, and Roasted chicken.
We drank generous portions of a California Cabernet Sauvignon and a Chardonnay. For dessert we had a delicious wild berry cobbler and cappuccino.

Following dinner we watched a magnificent sunset from the veranda and headed to the Grand Salon to be welcomed and entertained by the cruise director and the American Queen entertainment team after which we called it a night.

Partying on at the 35th Annual French Quarter Festival in New Orleans

“There’s certain thing in life that I love. One is architecture…music, culture, food, people…and New Orleans has all of that.”
—Lenny Kravitz

We met our friends and neighbors, Susan and Nelson Bye in New Orleans this weekend to enjoy the 35th Annual French Quarter Festival prior to our scheduled river boat cruise on the Mississippi River tomorrow afternoon. It was a visual, musical and gastronomical feast. Susan who was born in Ecuador, and raised in Chile to Jewish parents said she was going to take us to church. Huh? I thought. After walking around the market district we heard church bells. She bumped into a priest from another Catholic parish who told her a service was taking place at St. Patrick’s Church right up the street. Though Susan is not particularly religious, she has had a long standing love affair with church choirs. We discovered that the church was established in 1833 and was on the National Historic Register. Before we new it we were sitting in the cedar wood pews. The grand pipe organ was playing, and a choir was singing. It was beautiful, calming and majestic and brought me back to my childhood when I used to attend mass.

Next stop was Compere Lapin Caribbean Restaurant located in the Warehouse Arts District. We were scheduled to meet our niece Emily and her friend Abbey there at 11:30 AM for brunch. Emily has been attending the French Quarter Festival for three years now and recommended Compere Lapin which in French means, brother rabbit. We introduced Emily and Abby Stockwell to the Byes. The quaint eater specializes in Creole and Cajun style and was awesome. Our two hour visit passed by quickly, we walked together down the street, then before parting company hugged and said our goodbyes.

Cecile and I and the Byes walked along the waterfront. It was a windy day and the smell of marijuana was in the air. There were several bands playing in stages stretched along the waterfront. We stopped at a few to enjoy the music. The scene was vibrant, alive, colorful. Large paddle boats were ever-present on the river.
I bumped into a few interesting characters and took photos of and with them. One in particular was an African American balloon making clown named Dwayno. He was making animal shaped figures for the kids, some with their fathers who were from the East Coast. He mentioned he used to work at Seaport Village in NYC but lived in Hoboken. I got his attention and said: “I’m from Hoboken.” An instant connection was made. We talked about Frank Sinatra, Hoboken’s favorite son, etc.

We then walked to the legendary and late BB King’s Blues Club. We paid our cover charge, got the top of our hand ink stamped with BB and Nelson and I had a beer. We listened to the Joy Owens band and I finished one of the beignets we ordered to go from the one and only Cafe du Monde. On each table top, was a painted portrait like the late Muddy Waters, the “father of modern Chicago Blues (photo).

After we left BB King’s, we walked some more, perused some shops and made our way to the award winning Palace Club in the French Quarter for a 6:15 PM dinner. It was an upbeat and lively cafe housed in the historic Werlein’s Music building. We had a wonderful waitress Kathleen serve us and a young good-natured young man named Bryson brought us our cocktails. I had a Shilo, the supper clubs version of a Moscow Mule, only they use tequila instead of Vodka. The Byes and myself ordered fish and seafood and Cecile had a cauliflower tort with Brie cheese which was out of this world. For dessert, Bryson made us Bananas Foster Flambé (photo). After bidding our servers farewell, we caught a trolley and went to hear Steamboat Willie, a veteran musician perform a set with his band at Cafe Beignet, before, heading back to our hotel. We clocked over 14,000 steps and were finally ready to call it night.

Celebrating a Simple Passover Seder: a Festival That Even Non-Jews Have Come to Enjoy

Like every year Cecile wanted to prepare a Passover Seder. It was only going to be her, Jason and myself. Our daughter Michelle and her husband Kyle couldn’t make it this year. We discovered that our friends and neighbors, Susan and Nelson Bye were free and were more than delighted to join us. After the candle lighting blessing, and the blessing over the wine and Matzah (unleavened bread), dinner was served. Cecile prepared a wonderful meal beginning with Charoset (a dark paste of ground dates, raisins and nuts), roasted carrots and potatoes, avocado salad, cucumbers and tomatoes, vegetarian pate and “Fred Steak,” named after a man named Fred who created a special marinade for his roasts over 40 years ago. We finished off with a heavenly home-made dessert of Chocolate Souffle with fresh whipped cream. Yes, folks, it was to die for. 

Unlike other communal religious rituals, Passover’s appeal to both secular and religious Jews as well as non-Jewish guests is that it doesn’t take place in a synagogue, but rather at the dinner table. The common question asked by parents of their children during Passover is “What makes this night different from all other nights?”
The answer: Passover is an invitation for Jews to relive the liberation of their people (Ancient Hebrews) from slavery in Egypt and believe the story should be passed on from generation to generation. But in modern times the response you might get is that it is a Jewish festival that non-Jews love to attend. It has become chic to invite a non-Jew to a Jewish seder. Even the White House held a Passover seder during Obama’s presidency beginning in 2008 (See Reuters Photo).

Actually there is some precedent for this. Hillel the elder, a famous Jewish religious leader of his time and one of the most important figures in Jewish history could not recall a particular practice relating to Passover the way it has come to be known. It is said that he resolved the matter my saying, “Go out and see what people are doing.” After embracing this challenge, he concluded: “Come to my house, and you’ll see how we do it–with an array of participants. Jews, non-Jews, all are welcome here!

It would be totally understandable if Jews kept their tradition totally to themselves since non-Jews don’t share their lineage. In other words we are not a member of the tribe. Yet, non-Jews of all stripes or colors and sexual orientations that have experienced being oppressed and persecuted can relate to the Passover story. Martin Luther King Jr. alluded to the Exodus story in a speech he gave the day before he was killed. “I’ve been to the mountaintop…I looked over. And I’ve seen the Promised Land. I may not get there with you. But I want you to know tonight, that we, as a people, will get to the Promised Land.” King shared the same vision of Moses, the Jewish prophet at the center of the Passover story, who led the Israelites through the desert but wasn’t able to take that final stretch into the Land of Israel or the Promised Land.

Since Cecile and I met 46 years ago, I have become a fan of this holiday that lasts for 7 days and 8 nights. Of course, as Jews assimilate into mainstream society it’s become common for interfaith couples like Cecile and I and Nelson and Susan to share the traditions of our childhoods. 

Happy Passover, to our family and Jewish friends.

Sources cited:  
Lauren Davidson, The Jewish Holiday of Gentiles, The Atlantic April 14, 2014
Rabbi Peter Schweitzer, Moment Magazine, Saturday, March 31, 2018

Celebrating TIna the Birthday Girl whose Friends Call her the "Bearer of Gifts"

“A grateful and generous heart is like a magnet. When you take the time to acknowledge the abundance in your life and share the wealth, you attract even more blessings and reasons to feel grateful…”
—Cheryl Richardson

No one embodies this aspiration more than our friends Tina and Wayne Levenfeld. The former owners of the Toll house hotel in Los Gatos are on the short list of two of the most generous people we know. 

Tina threw a birthday dinner party for herself at Flights (formerly Hults), a tapas style restaurant in the quaint village of Los Gatos (The Cats).
Old school etiquette experts like Miss Manners would say throwing your own birthday celebration is pretentious since the traditional expectation is when you are invited to a birthday party you're expected to buy a gift. Friends of Tina and Wayne would say, “WRONG!”
Tina is known in her circle of friends to be kind, loving, inclusive and generous to a fault. Not only did she and her loving and devoted husband Wayne host the dinner but none of Tina’s sisterhood friends left her party without a personalized gift. Yes, you heard that right. She was the “bearer of gifts” at her own birthday party. How sweet is that? At a certain point during the festivities Tina took the time to address the group, thanking us for coming, telling us how much her family and friends mean to her. She is fond of reminding people,“Your presence is my gift.” Need I say more?

The venue was charming. Flights had a bit of a stylish nightclub feel and the drinks and food kept coming. Just when you thought it was done, there was more food to indulge the most heartiest of appetites. Restauranteur and former hockey player for the San Jose Sharks, Alex Hult and his wife Sarah, Miss Nevada (2011) conceived the idea for their trendy eatery while on vacation in Hawaii in search of the perfect flight of cocktails…Flights is built on the premise of serving comfort food and great cocktails to its customers at a reasonable price and in a casual atmosphere. Everything is served with a trio of different flavors whether it is food, wine, beer, cocktails and desserts like the three Angus beef sliders, three different types of Mac & Cheese, fried calamari, three types of meatballs, and delectable Vanilla Creme Anglais, Chocolate and strawberry Beignets that melt in your mouth. The friendly servers are called “flight attendants,” and it looks like Alex and Sarahs concept restaurant is ready for take off as new locations are on the drawing board.

Happy Birthday Tina and thanks for a wonderful evening! We love you and Wayne!

Celebrating our 41st Wedding Anniversary with the Hurleys at Aldo's Ristorante

"Being deeply loved by someone gives you strength, while loving someone deeply gives you courage."—Lao Tzu

This is dedicated to the one I love—My best Friend Cecile whom I have lived with for 46 years.
Aldo's, was the perfect venue to enjoy a special evening with our dear longtime friends, Judith and Michael Hurley. The food was extraordinarily good as always. Marco and his assistant waiter seen here provided great service and good cheer.

Reflecting back, It’s so amazing when someone comes into your life and you find yourself afraid to commit. But suddenly, you realize the person in front of you is all you ever needed. When we first met, Cecile, I felt like everything in my life was propelling me towards you: my choices, my fears, my heart aches, my indecisions and my regrets. 
When we began to connect on the heart level I realized my past grievances with myself seemed worth it. Because, had I done anything different our paths may have never crossed. Love isn’t always perfect. Though we certainly had our many, many peak moments, it wasn't always a fairytale. Love is overcoming obstacles, facing challenges, accepting our differences fighting to be together, holding on and never letting go. It is a short word, easy to spell, difficult to define and impossible to live without. Love is work but most of all it's realizing that every second, every minute every hour and every year was worth it. And, with two great kids (Jason and Michelle who have gone on to become self fulfilled adults, who can ask for anything more. Happy Anniversary sweetheart!

Sip, Sip Hooray: Free Wine & Beer and Delicious $3.00 Tacos To Go at Bay Club Courtside

“It’s all about good, old-fashioned hospitality, and a good atmosphere.”—Kevin Burns

After an early evening yoga class at Bay Club Courtside recently I spotted a sign in the lobby outside the trendy indoor gourmet eatery called Cafe Vida that read: “Sip, Sip Hooray.” There was wine and beer being poured. I asked Christina, a young enthusiastic staff member with the dark pony tail doing the pouring, if it was complimentary? She promply answered yes! Of course, in the back of my New Jersey mind I’m thinking what’s the catch? Was it sponsored by a Wine and Beer Club or something? I discovered that the special treat for members was going on every evening for a month and due to its popularity rumor has it that it may be extended after that to a couple of days a week until the end of Memorial Day weekend. 

This reminded me of the good old days, when the wineries in Napa Valley used to have free, wine tastings. How was it being received by members? Judging by the crowd and the tip bowl, it was getting a very warm reception. Haley, another staff member who was doing the pouring the following evening, said it is the club’s way of giving back to its members and creating an atmosphere where people could mingle.

It was also Taco Thursday. A long table and grill were set up right next to the free booze. Grab and go tacos with fresh healthy ingredients were made right on the spot. At $3.00 a taco, it was a deal. After finishing my glass of wine, and complimentary, small cup of pretzel snacks that came with it, I bought three tacos to go and a can of Organic Light beer.

I had done a blog post on the very colorful grand opening of Cafe Vida last August and got acquainted with Jose’, the ever friendly, hardworking food service coordinator seen here grilling the chicken for the tacos. The other hard working members of the staff I photographed with Jose’ are Juan and John. It was John’s last day. He's leaving for Florida to study to become a commercial airline pilot.

Bay Club is always surprising and delighting its members by introducing new food and drink themes, organizing parties, and events like Margarita night, Sunday breakfast burritos to go, or to eat on the outdoor patio dining area around the fire pit and overlooking the family pool. Most National holidays are celebrated including the 4th of Juloy so members and their families have another opportunity to bond with one another. Their exemplary hospitality makes members feel right at home and I am grateful for the extra touches they employ to make us happy. 

I also have to give props to my loving wife Cecile, who continuing the Mexican theme made a killer Mexican Chile Casserole (last photo) a few days later for our son Jason and I. Es muy delicioso!

A Toast to My Paisano the Saint on St. Patrick's Day! Say What? Read On!

During yoga today, our substitute yoga teacher named June was wearing green for St. Patrick’s Day. As she looked around the yoga studio she said, “I am going to have to pinch you for not wearing green.” 
But, St. Patrick and his followers, would have had to deal with being pinched since back in the day they wore "St. Patrick’s Blue.” In fact, so did the Irish military. The color green became popular after it was linked to the Irish Independence Movement in the late 18th century. It made me think of other myths associated with this popular holiday.

Though St. Patrick is considered the patron saint of Ireland for making his mark by introducing Christianity to Ireland in 432 AD, he wasn’t even born in Ireland. Historians believe that he was born in Kilpatrick, near Dumbarton in Scotland which was technically part of Britain at the time. His parent’s Calpurnius and Conchessa were Italian and lived on a British estate. So, as my late father Frank—who
loved to read religious history and was a Catholic seminarian for a year would say, "technically St. Patrick was Italian.” Yes, we all laughed and thought he was off his rocker. But, do yourself a favor folks, do a Google search! It is not uncommon for common day myths to collide
with history. It happens all the time. This saintly guy is my “paisano,” the equivalent of “homie” to Italians and Italian Americans. It appears that the common saying: “everyone is a little Irish on St. Patrick’s Day” requires a bit of revision. 

Another example is that Irish folklore states that St. Patrick gets the credit for driving all the snakes our of Ireland. But, scientists point out that according to the fossil record, Ireland was going through an Ice Age and was too cold to host any reptiles. Mythologists believe it as a metaphor for getting rid of the pagans who were referred to as "snakes."

Drinking was prohibited on March 17, St. Patrick’s Day for most of the 20th century because it was deemed mostly a religious holiday in Ireland. This changed when it was converted to a national holiday. Since 1762, when Irish soldiers serving in the English military marched through the streets of NYC proclaiming their connection with their Irish roots, over a quarter of a million people have marched on Fifth Avenue on St Patrick’s Day. 

Photos: The delicious chocolate and banana cupcakes with the 3 leaf clovers and that say kiss me were bought at the iconic “Icing On the Cake” after my dental hygiene appointment. A cute young Asian vendor at the Farmers Market with the green antenna hair clip. Eating Irish green sprinkled cookies and drinking a non-alcoholic lemonade and fresh ginger (I know boring but good:-)

Feeding, Riding & Bathing an Elephant on the Left Bank of the Mekong RIver in Laos

Feeding, Riding & Bathing an Elephant on the Left Bank of the Mekong RIver in Laos

“To me, the word wisdom means ancient knowledge…the kind you not only see but feel when you look into the eyes of an elephant or stop…to marvel at the deep wrinkles on its skin, both of which contain the truths learned from each intentional step their…feet and those of their ancestors have placed on the earth.”—Molly Friedenfeld

Eight of 16 in our tour group were driven to the elephant conservation center Ban Xiang Hai situated on the left bank of the Mekong River, north of Luang Prabang, Laos. It was an optional tour offered by Overseas Adventure Travels (OAT). I partnered up with Ed from Colorado. The elephant we were assigned was 32 years old and she weighed 7,495 pounds. She is a vegetarian and eats a variety of food at the camp and in the rain forest and jungle that includes bananas, sugar cane and pineapple. She consumes 551 pounds of food and drinks 17 gallons each day. She swims at Mekong River 4 or 5 times daily. She has lived at the camp for three years and enjoys the company of the other elephants and appeared to enjoy interacting with us throughout our visit. According to its mahout (elephant keeper and trainer) before arriving at the camp she had a difficult life working in servitude for the logging industry, forced to put in up to 12 hours a day—every day. This was the logical argument given as a reason to allow leading tourists on elephant rides.

When we got to the elephant camp we saw the high wooden mounting platform that makes it easier to mount the elephant. After the mahout secured us in place on the wooden howdah (bench) that was placed over a stack of blankets to protect its skin, we were given cut sugar cane to feed the elephant as a way to bond with it. Back in the day I had ridden elephants in India and Thailand (with my son Jason) but never got to feed them. It was a amazing how our elephant would arc its trunk up and over its head in a circular fashion and wait until we placed the food in the curled end of her trunk where she would grasp it securely. But, one wasn’t enough. She would wait patiently until we placed 4 or 5 sugar canes in her grasp before placing it in her mouth. This eating ritual was playfully repeated several times.

The mahout walked in front of the elephant whispering gentle commands as we cantered side to side with each step of this gentle, intelligent creature. From the beginning of the ride, we witnessed the mahout treating the elephant with absolute compassion and kindness. Toward the end of our ride, the young elephant handler gracefully hopped up from a stack of quarry rock and sat on top of the neck of the elephant and led it to the river. He handed Ed and I a long stick and scooper at the end and directed us to repeatedly scoop the water up and pour it over the neck of the elephant. He then gently massaged the water into its neck to help relax it and cool it down. When we made our way back to the elephant conservation camp, we dismounted and the howdah was removed from the elephant’s back and we got to feed it again, this time from ground level. Later, the mahout took it to the Mekong river to get it cleaned and hydrated.

Historically, Laos was once known as the Land of a Million Elephants. Regretably, there are only 800 of these majestic trunk-swingling creatures left, or half of what dwells in the wild. In the 1980s there were an estimated 4000 elephants in Laos, meaning the population has plummeted by more than 75% in the past 30 years. I learned that elephants have no stomach, whis is why they require a lot food and drink a lot of water. They only require 3-4 hours of sleep per day and can live upwards of 90-100 years.

An elephant can carry 30% of its weight. They claim that placing two tourists on a howdah is less than 440 pounds and presents no problem for the elephant. That being said, riding elephants is controversial. The ideal would be for elephant camps like the one our daughter Michelle and husband Kyle visited in Chiang Mai, Thailand last October that is a pure elephant sanctuary that doesn't offer rides. But the sad and harsh reality is that most remaining mahouts would not be able to handle the upkeep of maintaining their elephants without it. The alternative is engaging the elephant in the illegal logging industry or selling them to questionable Chinese sources that would place them in zoos, entertainment venues or farmed, so that their ivory can be harvested. It is a sad but true reality with no easy answers.
Notes: Aside from Ed and I, the folks to our left are Jane and Wayne, and to our right, Mary and Tom and Debbie and Karen.

Cherry Blossoms (Sakura) and Stormy Sunsets

After almost five glorious sightseeing weeks touring Southeast Asia we have been hanging low waiting patiently for the jet lag to pass. While it is always a real treat to experience the natural beauty of other countries, it is also a joy to view it from your own window or the walking paths. In this case, the elegant Cherry blossoms. The other day the sun was bright and full against a blue sky and last evening the sunset was bright and shrouded by mysterious-looking storm clouds that ushered in a day of rain that has continued today as the morning unfolds. Though the photos hint of early Spring it is bone chilling cold out here in California. Even our son Jason's dog Daisy was feeling the chill and we had to put her insulated rain-resistant puffer vest on.

In Japan a cherry blossom is called Sakura. It is a popular name for girls. Many schools in Japan plant sakura on their grounds. When they are at their peak, businesses vary their trading hours to give their staff time to enjoy them.
It is called “Hanami” which in Japanese literally means “flower viewing.”

While Cecile and I have experienced the majestic beauty of the Cherry Blossom season in Japan some years ago,
I feel blessed that they appeared outside our stain glass window and outside my home office window. 
I never waste time doing something society deems important or "productive" when I can stop for a spell and enjoy the transient beauty of the cherry blossoms. 

Here are two poems that pay tribute to the joyful flowering of cherry blossoms and full moons nestling in amidst the storm clouds:

Sakura

Soft, Delicate, Small, Fragrant
Pink and white
Flutter to the ground
To form a gentle blanket
That gently rustle
In the cool spring breeze
I watch in awe
At your beauty…
Oh majestic
And delicate one
Whose name is
Sakura
—Semerian Perez 

"Though outwardly a gloomy shroud,
The inner half of every cloud
Is bright and shining [more so by the setting sun]:
I therefore turn my clouds about  
And always wear them inside out
To show the [silver lining]."
—Ellen Thorneycroft Fowler

Final Goodbye Images of Bangkok Before our Journey Home

“Travel opens your mind as few things do. It is its own form of hypnotism, and I am forever under its spell." —Libba Bray

What was supposed to be a 4 day layover before returning home to California became a joyful surprise in and of itself. The five star Marriott Marquis in Queen's Village was truly a delight at a reasonable cost. We had a birds eye view of the cityscape from our 36th floor room. The food was superb, the service was beyond peer and a return to Benchasiri Park 20 feet from the back entrance to the hotel was well worth a return visit. The pyramid and topiary maze and the sculpture of a musician playing his drum was magical. The black 3 faced statue is a Hindu Shrine in front of the Marriott was unexpected. We missed the Kung Fu tea master, but here is a photo image of him performing his art form. Finally, the Swedish massage at the hotel's Quan Spa left me transported to another universe. Just what I needed before our long trip back home. That said, all good things must come to an end and we were excited to return to California. Goodby Southeast Asia, you were a delight! Thank you for the cultural, esthetic and spiritual experience of a lifetime!

Farewell Lunch, Drinks and Dinner with our Tour Group & Cecile and I are Back to Thailand for 4 More Days

Cecile and I and our small congenial tour group had our final lunch at Pho Hung, cocktails on the top floor of our hotel and a farewell dinner at Viet Village Restaurant in Saigon with Lin, our main guide, from Overseas Adventure Travels OAT). Together we toured and learned about the Ancient Kingdoms of Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam. Arthur, our local guide was also present. Together with our pre-Trip to Myanmar (Burma) that Cecile and I did on our own, we have been out of the country for one month and I have to say even though the time passed quickly, the memories will last a lifetime. We are currently back in Bangkok, Thailand for four nights at the Marriott Marquis where we are going to relax by the pool, do some leisurely shopping and hopefully hook up with a friend before heading back home to California.

This was our first trip with OAT and I have to say we have been very impressed with the first hand knowledge and insight of the trip leaders. They made the history and culture come alive. They bent over backwards to anticipate our every need. They displayed unbridled enthusiasm, caring personalities, and with respect to Lin, a wickedly funny sense of humor. They demonstrated an ability to bring a diverse groups of travelers together and provide an atmosphere of shared experiences that made it possible for our group to bond together. Finally, they introduced us to unique culinary experiences we never thought we'd ever be a part of. Southeast Asian countries are known for their gracious hospitality and along the way we were touched by it many times. Throughout our journey, Lin made it clear that we would not only going to witness and experience the beauty and the spirituality of these countries, but we would be exposed to the poverty and the dark side of history as well. Yet, to be fair all countries have a darker side including our own, and life goes on. Our experience in this area made me think about a quote by L.R. Knost who once said: “Do not be dismayed by the brokenness of the world. All things break. And all things can be mended. Not with time, as they say, but with intention. So go. Love intentionally, extravagantly, unconditionally. The broken world waits in the darkness for the light [you bring to it].”

Exploring the Underground Bunkers of the Vietnamese Communist Forces and Shaking Hands with a Viet Cong Veteran who Lost his Arm During Battle

After breakfast today, our tour bus driver drove us to the Cu Chi Tunnels—a mile-long underground maze where thousands of fighters and villagers hid and fought during the Vietnam War, referred to by locals as the “American War.” The conflict began in 1955-1975. The South Vietnamese Communists, or Viet Cong, built an elaborate and vast network of tunnels in and around the district of Cu Chi and worked continually over the years to expand the multi-level network. The tunnels include mess halls, meeting rooms, an operating theater, tiny cinema, small factories, and vast ammunitions stores, allowed the Viet Cong to control large areas of Saigon. Today, Cu Chi Tunnels provide invaluable insight into the war era. 

We had the unusual opportunity to meet a retired Viet Cong Veteran named Chia who was invited by Overseas Adventure Travels (OAT) to meet with our group to answer any questions we had about the tunnels. Chia is married, has four kids and seven grandkids. After taking down an enemy tank in November 1, 1967, a second tank fired back and shot his right arm off. He collects about $195 a month which is sufficient for his living standards and he and his family get free education and health care. He told us that the underground bunker was capable of holding twelve thousand soldiers but normally accommodated an average of 2500-3000. The main problem was getting enough oxygen, so they created “air holes,” which made it easier for the soldiers to breathe. When asked how he decided to join the communists he said he was merely following family tradition. They began building the tunnels in 1954 which allowed Ho Chi Minh to defeat the French. He said no one wins in war and seemed to harbor no bitterness towards the American people. He said it was very apparent that most US citizens were against the war. Afterwards, a few of us took photos with him. While standing by his side I placed my arm around his back and I was moved when he took his "only" hand and gently placed it in mine.

Chia thanked us for coming to Vietnam and invited us to tell our friends to come visit his country.
We were then assigned a young soldier to show us the underground bunkers and how to enter into them for those who were willing. It was an amazing experience moving from descending into one tunnel and getting out through another. Our Vietnamese guide, Arthur demonstrates the tool soldiers used to dig out the tunnels.

On the bus ride home, our Thai tour guide Lin led us in singing the iconic 60s lyrics to the anti-war protest song: “Where Have All The Flowers Gone,” by Peter, Paul and Mary which essentially is a meditation on the horrors and losses of the Vietnam war which begged the answer to the question from our government, “When Will They Ever Learn?”

After the tour of the tunnels it was so nice to come out to the other side and be greeted by the parents of three beautiful young children who were only too eager to take a photo with us (see photo). The last photo of me duck walking out of the tunnel was unexpectantly taken by an enterprising photographer.

Exploring the Famous & Scenic Mekong Delta on Sampans & Paddle Boats, A lunchtime Feast & Dancing the Night Away

"Southeast Asia has a real grip on me. From the very first time I went there, its was a fulfillment of my childhood fantasies of the way travel should be."
—Anthony Bourdain

We journeyed outside of Ho-Chi-Minh City to Vietnam’s famous Mekong Delta. We stopped at Cafe Sake for a bathroom break and coffee and relaxed on some hammocks, before continuing on to the picturesque province of Ben Tre near where our local guide Arthur’s family is from. Our group walked through the village along the canal which also serves as the areas irrigation system. People move to this area to escape the fast pace and noise of Ho-Chi-Min City. I can see why. We hardly saw a soul and it was so serene walking through the coconut plantations and passed quiet homes this area is known for. We saw a beautiful Torch Ginger Flower seen in one of my photos, Pomelo fruit, and Longan (Lychee type fruit).

At the end of our walk we climbed into a skinny sampan boat and was handed a conical hat to put on our heads. We cruised the canals and quiet waterways of the Delta. Cecile and I were accompanied by Lin, our intrepid, guide from Overseas Adventures Travels (OAT) who has been with us from the beginning of our tour and of course the oarsman who propelled us through the groves of water based coconut trees. We were taken by the simple living and the quiet scenic beauty of this part of Vietnam. We stopped at a village factory to learn how they make the sticky, toffee-like coconut candy. We were offered shot glasses of tea with honey and cumquat as seen by the photo of me and fellow traveler, Charlie from Florida. We were also shown how they break a coconut to get the juice out and tasted the coconut fruit. We cruised to nearby Phoenix Island where Arthur told us about a religion started by Ong Dao Dua, known as the Coconut Monk, after engaging in meditation at Chau Doc’s Sam Mountain. It was a fusion of Buddhism and Christianity. Toward the end of our visit we tried on a live Python on our shoulders as demonstrated by Arthur, and I was invited to have a beer and fresh fruit with a group of local guys from the village.

We switched off to a large paddle boat, enjoyed sipping fresh coconut juice and pulled onto a dock of a local plantation style restaurant for an elaborate six course meal that included sticky rice globular bowls cut into sections, vegetables, a crepe type dish, and a full large whole fish called Gourami that the staff deboned and prepared for us. 

When we returned on our bus for our one and half hour bus ride back to our hotel, we napped and had our own private party, singing and dancing on the top floor of the hotel, overlooking Ho-Chi-Minh City's version of a Times Square building that was changing colors every few seconds. Our guide Lin had a playlist that got us rocking the night away. We then had pizza and pasta with newly made friends Eileen and Jerry from Buffalo, NY, before calling it a night.

Good Morning & Good Evening Vietnam! A Local's and Tourist Paradise of Fun Activities During TET

Touring the Presidential Palace, Participating in a Lion-Dragon Ceremony, a Water puppet Show and a Cyclo Ride through Ho-Chi-Minh City were just some of the activities in store for us.

After breakfast at our hotel we set out to tour the grounds and interior of the Presidential Palace (aka The Reunification Center), the former office of the residence of South Vietnam’s president during the Vietnam War. The communist Vietnamese won its independence in 1975, right after the tank crashed through the palace gates, symbolizing the “Fall of Saigon.” The tank still graces its front lawn. Even though the city is officially called Ho-Chi-Minh City, many people still call it by its cooler name Saigon.

After the Palace, we visited a day in the life of local residents in a poor section of the city. One couple with their son welcomed us into to their cramped flat to see how they live, knowing that comparatively speaking we all had a much higher standard of living in the US. Two symbols that stood out throughout the neighborhoods we visited: The red flag and five pointed yellow star is the National flag of Vietnam and symbolizes the history of Vietnam’s anti-colonial struggle and later becoming a communist state. The red refers to the “red blood,” of resistance fighters and “yellow skin.” The hammer and the sickle is the symbol of the Communist Party of Vietnam.

We visited a Chinese temple in Cho Lon, Saigon where people were lighting incense sticks and offering to the gods and their ancestors. One of our group heard what appeared to be a drum beating and Lin, our general tour guide for the trip said lets go across the street to see the Unicorn/Lion/Dragon dance. Boy, was that a great call. This Vietnamese traditional custom is usually performed on major festivals and major occasions, especially on Tet (Lunar New Year). The belief is that the dance dispels evil spirits, and brings about good luck for the rest of the year. There was a young dance and musician group performing. Apparently, a local English-speaking business owner sponsored the event and by the coaxing of our guide allowed us to participate with him, his family and the neighborhood. The young performers are paid for their participation. 

After a nap, we resumed our activities by attending a traditional "Vietnamese Water Puppet Show" that dates back to the 11th century in the Red River Delta area of northern Vietnam. When the rice fields would flood, villagers would entertain each other. I was equally entertained by two young girls directly in front of me who were enjoying the show with their parents. Able to suspend reality, you could see by their actions this felt very real for them.

After the show, we rode a rickshaw (called Cyclo) that have essentially been banned (except for tourists) due to traffic jams cramping the city residents. One person was assigned to each cyclo driver. My driver was called Thien and he began by taking a photo of me. I even managed a selfie along the way that he participated in. It is totally mesmerizing to see the motor scooters buzz around the streets just inches apart from one another. There are about 13 million people and a mind boggling 8 million motorbikes.
Without question, this was a real highlight for the group. We caravanned around town on the way to happy hour at a local beer club followed by another delightful dinner before calling it a night. The Orange Drink I'm holding up that I had for lunch is called a detox beverage: Fresh orange juice, carrot and ginger.

Enjoying the Explosion of Color in Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City) During the TET Holiday Season

“We travel to open our hearts and eyes and learn more about the world than our newspapers will accommodate.” 
—Pico Iyer

Cecile, myself and the Overseas Adventure Travels (OAT) group landed in Saigon this afternoon. Before checking into the Nahtha 3 Hotel near the center of town, we went to see the Cathedral of Notre Dame which marks the center of the city’s French colonial heritage. Though not as grand as the one in Paris, it is still a beautiful site to visit. It boasts high towers, stained glass windows, wooden pews and classic plaid floor tiles. There is also a towering Virgin Mary in the backdrop. Unlike the other Southeast Asian cities we have visited thus far which are predominately Buddhist, Vietnam is about 55% Buddhist.

After seeing the Cathedral we then went across the street to see Saigon’s Central Post Office that began construction in 1886. It’s French colonial architecture makes it another renowned standout for the city. It was designed by Gustave Eiffel, the same architect who engineered the Eiffel Tower in Paris. It is fully functional and a top tourist attraction. It also has a portrait of Ho Chi Minh on the back wall. Cecile and I had our photo taken in front of the stunning, yellow flowering apricot tree. We then went to the Saigon La Poste Cafe next door and created a post card of our facial images behind red cardboard cutouts. In addition to the Chinese New Year festivities still going on, the Vietnamese are also celebrating their New Year (TET). Many of the commercial buildings in the center of town, are all lit up. Some of the lights are leftover from the Christmas Holidays. The photographs I have taken here are of colorful red and yellow dragons, merchants like the Beer Club and Diamond Department store decorating their exterior with colorful lights and decorations. I also photographed street vendors that were out in mass, locals and tourists enjoying early evening strolls and a son and his mother having a tender moment while waiting for customers to buy their wares. It is a reminder that all we have are these precious moments to enjoy and savor as life goes by in a flash.

A Pilgrimage to to Angkor Wat: One of the Seven Wonders of the World

A Pilgrimage to to Angkor Wat: One of the Seven Wonders of the World

The mystique of Angkor Wat in Siem Reap, Cambodia brings out the adventure in all of us. It was the site where "Tomb Raider" and "Indiana Jones Temple of Doom" were filmed. My son Jason and I first visited Angkor Wat in 2004. I was amazed how he climbed up and down the steep steps like a gazelle. I was more tentative and cautious and with the passage of time I am even more so now.

Our group ventured into Angkor Wat, an incredible 500 acre temple city complex. It is considered the largest religious monument in the world that was discovered by Portuguese missionaries around 1580. It was originally a Hindu Temple that was gradually transformed into a Buddhist temple at the end of the 12th century. It was declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1992 and is considered one of the Seven Wonders of the World. It has been named the top travel destination by Trip Advisor and Lonely Planet. It is an expression of Khmer architecture genius. The soaring awe inspiring temples and monuments were built between AD 800-1200. They are surrounded by a 570 foot wide moat that is filled with pink lotus flowers. It is the heart and soul of Cambodia and is a source of national pride. During its prime there were as many as 750,000 to one million people were living there.

Angkor Wat is famous for its 3000 beguiling heavenly dancing nymphs carved into its walls. In the afternoon we passed through the South Gate of Angkor Thom, the capital city of the ancient Khmer rulers. We concluded with a visit to Ta Prohm, which has been left the way it was found, covered with dense jungle of trees as first discovered by the French in the mid-1800s. Our group had fun taking photos of each other at various strategic points throughout the complex. I suggested some yoga poses that fellow travelers Debbie from D.C., and Ingrid from Laguna Beach, CA seemed to enjoy. One of the most common questions asked by tourists is what do the four mesmerizing faces on all sides of the towering Buddha Statue towers represent? During my meditation studies over the years I learned that they are symbolic of loving-kindness, empathetic joy, compassion and equanimity. Often referred to the four radiant or heavenly abodes or realms, they are the universal expression of an open heart and mind that are the meditative states, thoughts and actions to be cultivated in Buddhist mindfulness practice. 

What added whimsy and joy to the day was getting permission to photograph the lovely couple seen here celebrating their wedding anniversary with their children who were more interested in the westerner in his elephant pants taking their photo rather than the photographer their parents hired. Then there were the monkeys making mischief and eating corn. 

After walking many miles and climbing many steps to heights that can be challenging at times, we rested our bodies and quenched our thirst at the Angkor Cafe. I had enjoyed a cold fresh lime and mint shake and contemplated the magic of what I had once just experienced. It gave new meaning to the famous quote by architect Mies Van Der Rohe who said: “God is in the details.”